Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese** 2017 (2 Fl.)

Parker: From 80- to 120-year-old vines, the intensely citrus-yellow colored 2017 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ** (White Capsule) offers an absurdly deep, highly intense, complex and concentrated bouquet with lime confit, perfectly ripe white stone fruits and flinty notes of crushed stones and lemon zest. On the palate, this is a dense, rich and powerful yet highly elegant and seamlessly textured Sonnenuhr with very fine tannins and a tightly woven structure that channels the immense power of this dry Riesling. "Physical drinking starts here," Markus Molitor says with a smile, and indeed, this is a spectacularly strong and concentrated Riesling. Despite its power, density and tension, the 2017 is super elegant and silky and reveals perfectly ripe, interwoven acidity and spicy piquancy. This is a fascinating Riesling with outstanding finesse and a very long, promising finish. This is one of the finest two-starred Auslesen I have tasted from Markus Molitor, and it kisses the three-star level. I can only recommend buying some cases and enjoying this beauty over the next 20 to 30 years. Tasted in March and April 2019. 97/100

Suckling: Stunning minerality here with smoke, citrus, quartz, granite, chalk and parsley and thyme. Ostensibly dry on the palate with a raw yet playful serving of acidity that gives this super kick and drive. Medium-to full-bodied and very long on the finish, where there’s an iron-filings aftertaste. Drink now or hold. 95/100