Klaus Peter Keller Riesling Abtserde GG 2009

Parker: “From the first day of fermentation, I smelled this and got goose bumps,” says Klaus-Peter Keller of his 2009 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs, and the same can be said of the finished wine, which – impressive as are those that preceded it in this year’s collection – plays in a different league. The dynamic complexity of elements for which one can find only mineral descriptors (and then very imperfect ones) is already astonishing: salt; chalk; alkali; shrimp shell reduction; iodine; and peat are already adumbrated on the nose and then spell-bindingly and intricately interwoven on a silken field with grapefruit, white peach, and Ranier cherry, nut oils and bitter-sweet floral perfume into a delectable, nearly demonic dance that leaves my mouth drooling and my tongue quivering helplessly in hopeful anticipation of the next sip. This transfixes and refreshes, yet greed still leaves me unsatisfied, and I fantasize about the Bishop of Worms – who once got first crack at the wine of Abtserde – denying me communion with this rarified and seemingly magical elixir. “The active lime content in this site is measurably enormous and unique among my vineyards,” notes Keller, convinced that its effects lie at the root of this Riesling’s animated complexity. A transparent exemplification of Keller’s Riesling ideals and of a great site, this will, I feel confident, continue to amaze for at least the next 15 years. 97/100

Galloni: Expansive aromas of cling peach, clove oil and passion fruit. The explosive pit fruit flavor is densely packed in an almost perfect structure that intrigues, charms and then refreshes the palate. A tantalizingly complex and extremely persistent finish offers perfect clarity and outstanding intensity. This is like drinking pure water from a mountain stream. My top dry riesling of the vintage. 96/100