Klaus Peter Keller G Max 2011

Parker: Keller's 2011 Riesling G-Max is every bit as pithily concentrated as and scarcely less buoyant or energetic than the corresponding Abtserde, with piquant toasted nuts, legume sprouts, crushed stone, peat, iodine, fruit pit and citrus rinds that truly stain the palate. For all of its near-implosive density there is still lift along with torrential primary juiciness here (something I suspect it needs to keep bitterness at bay). I would expect excitement in following it - for the few who are able - over the next dozen or more years (and a bottle that had been open for a day was not less riveting than one freshly-opened). A recent opportunity to review the dozen vintages of Grosse Gewachse for which Klaus Peter Keller has been solely responsible at his family's estate brings home how the virtues of earlier bottlings have undergone clarification and refinement as well as intensification in more recent years, such that any extrapolation from the former to predict how the later will perform in bottle risks failing to do those wines justice. But, by the same token, there are too few wines enough like Keller's most recent G-Max and Abtserde bottlings to do better than speculate on their long-term evolution, let alone to rely on any existing, analogous track record. 95/100