Keller G MAX trocken 2008

Parker: Lemon oil, pineapple, apricot, kirsch, rowan, linden flower, and nut oils truly haunt the nose – and taster! – of Keller’s 2008 Riesling G-Max, a bottling that as usual reflects a parcel whose precise identity he prefers not to divulge. Wafting inner-mouth perfume of flowers and spirit-like pit fruit essences hover over a dynamic interchange between the succulent, fleshy side of the pit fruits with a diverse cast of mineral nuances (salt and chalk being most obvious). The finish positively tugs at your salivary glands and sets up a vibratory, chordal sense of interactive floral, mineral, and fruit complexity while at the same time the sense of sumptuous palate saturation and of what Germans call “extract sweetness” is awesome. In this magnificent example one perceives the stylistic distance that Keller has traversed in seven vintages of G-Max, which arguably began its career closer to the sort of power wine from which he has since distanced himself.