Chateau Palmer Vertikale 1988, 1989, 1990 (3 Flaschen)

Parker zu 1988: This wine, like a number of 1988s, has matured well and is just beginning to show maturity. It has a dense, somewhat rugged constitution, with plenty of density, some earthy black fruits intermixed with licorice, compost, camphor, and roasted herbs. The wine is dense, medium to full-bodied, with some coarse tannins in the finish. I do not expect the tannins to ever melt away, but there is plenty of depth to this mouth-filling Palmer.

Parker zu 1989: Fairly light color, in contrast with the darker 1990. Elegant and complex bouquet, featuring a cornucopia of scents including jammy black fruits, cedar, mild spices, camphor, toast, tobacco, leather, truffle, and eucalyptus. Elegant in the mouth as well; full-bodied, yet refined and graceful. The 1989 is in perfect balance, with soft tannins and good acidity mingling effortlessly with the fruit. Extremely long, consistent, mesmerizing finish. In a “show of hands” voting, it was the 1989 that proved to to the “Wine of the Night,” beating the 1990 by two votes. It was almost as good as the 1961! 98/100

Parker zu 1990: Medium saturated color with the first hint of amber at the rim. Exuberant, generous nose has us riveted in our seats in awe. Scents recall ripe cherries and blackberries, candied citrus fruits (similar to mature Sauternes), violet, coffee, cedar, ginger, and mint. Equally wonderful in the mouth; smooth, mellow, and totally seductive. The 1990 has silky tannins and terrific mouth feel. The finish is extra long, exotic, with oriental spice at the end. In sum, this was the “wine of the night” – until we came to the 1989! 97/100